Perfume Intelligence - The Encyclopaedia of Perfume

Raspberry

From the rubus genus of bushes and shrubs, originated in the Far East, although an essence can be obtained from the juice of the fruit; the scent is usually achieved synthetically.

Raspberry

French = framboise; German = Himbeere

Red

French = rouge; German = Rot; Dutch = rood; Italian = rosso

Re-launches and re-orchestration

Recognised that modern re-launches of classic fragrances have in most cases been re-orchestrated from the original, due to modern production methods of the original ingredients and the use of synthetic materials.
Also the manufacturers are able to re-presented the fragrance in modern packaging and modern bottles; therefore have been treated as a new fragrances

Reliquary

A container for religious relics. Since balls of scented resin were used on rosaries, and at one time scents were associated with warding off evils; thus the religious connection

Research Institute for Fragrance Materials

Abbreviation RIFM; established in 1966by the American Fragrance Manufacturing Association as a non-profit making, independent body; to evaluate the safety of fragrance ingredients.

Repoussè

Are relief decoration on metal made by hammering or punching from the back against some resilient material

Resin

The solids or semi-solid organic plant secretions.

Resinoid

A term used to describe a resin that has been washed in benzene or alcohol to remove its sticky, soluble materials.

Restricted and/or banned ingredients

By IFRA or are under consideration for restriction. some materials, such as natural animal-derived notes, have been replaced with synthetic substitutes because of consumer preference and/or trade restrictions. Here are a few examples: Vanilla, jasmine, oakmoss, coumarin, birch tar, citrus oils, heliotropin, styrax, opoponax. The substitute ingriendents often alter the fragrance's smell.

Reticule

A purse of the mid 1800's; scent bottles specifically designed to be carried in a reticule; developed in modern times in 'purse perfumes'

Reticulated

The pierced intricate work on a scent bottle, usually metal, which forms a net or web

Revel, Harry

British composer who set six Corday fragrance names to music (1948)

Rhett & Scarlett

The name given by Collectors to novelty bottle bookends

Rhizomes

Root-like stems that grow under the ground. e.g. orris root and ginger, from which essential oils are extracted

Rhubofix

An aromachemical described as having “a zesty freshness and unique green rhubarb effect”

Rigarée

Are applied decoration of glass with a close-set, narrow vertical bands that were sometimes of different colours and/or a delicate ruffle

Rococo

A style of ornamental design that followed the baroque period in France; a revival took place in the 19th century on glassware popular in Silesia

Rooibos

South African, (Afrikaans) for 'red tea'; actually not a tea but a herb of the genus aspalathus linearis; a small bush, found in the ClanWilliam area of the Southern Cape

Rosa Gallica

Well known to gardeners for being one of the best-scented roses; until recently been treated by perfumers as a poor relation to the Cabbage Rose. Like many other rose species first cultivated in Persia (modern Iran), a favourite in Ancient Rome, only became established in Europe after the Crusades.

Rose

The use of roses as a perfume has a long history. Originated in Northern Persia. Roses were the first flowers to be distilled in order to capture their fragrance; process discovered by Arabian perfumers in the Middle Ages. A Turkish merchant is believed to have introduced rose production into Eastern Roumania then part of the Ottoman Empire, now modern Bulgaria, which is the world’s largest rose-growing area.
It takes 250lbs of petals to make one ounce of attar (essential oil); gathering is down at down as the sun causes evaporation of the precious oils in the petals.

Rose de Mai

A small centifolia Moroccan rose now grown extensively in the Grasse region of France, has a highly fragrant oil. Also known as 'centifolia rose'; see under ‘C’

Rosemary

An evergreen shrub rosemarinus officinalis with every part aromatic; the essential oils are steam-distilled from the fresh flowering tops. Has always had a mystical mantra, considered by many generations of pagans and even Christians to be sacred.

Rose of Taif

A 30-petal damask rose first came to Taif. The Rose of Taif is virtually identical to the famous Bulgarian "kazanlik" strain so suggests that it may have been transplanted from the Balkans by the Ottoman Turks, who occupied that area from the mid-14th century and the Hijaz from the 16th century; also its cultivation in Taif may have been due to its proximity to Makkah.
Today, Taif's production, though high in quality, is modest when compared to the quantities produced by larger, export-oriented operations in Turkey, Bulgaria, Russia, China, India, Morocco and Iran.

Rosetto, Giovanni

Italian author on perfumes; published 'Secreti Nobilissime dell'Arte' in 1678

Rose-water

The first description of the distillation of rose petals was written by the ninth-century philosopher al-Kindi, and more sophisticated equipment was described in the 10th century by al-Razi (See Aramco World, May /June 1997); one of the earliest centers of rose-water production was in southern Persia. Later, in the 13th century, rose water was produced widely in Syria, produced in Europe from about 16th century

Rose-wood

True rosewood oil comes from the ‘bois de rose tree’ – aniba rosaeodora amazonica, also known as Brazilian rosewood. The essential oil is made from the chippings leftover from then the trees are chopped, sawn and planed.

Royal Jelly

Produced in tiny quantities by worker bee to feed the queen; highly prized for its rejuvenating and cleansing qualities; used mainly in skin care

Ruby glass

Refers to all deep red glass; created by adding oxides of metal to the molten glass. Gold ruby is the richest colouring

Ruscelli, Girolamo

Earliest French book on Perfumes; 'Les Secret de Maistre Alexys de Piedmontois' published in 1555

Russian Perfume History

The history of perfumes in Russia is closely related with French businessman Henry Brocard. (see Brocard et Cie) a very successfull businessman, expanded into Russia with his wife, Sharlotte Reve, Belgian women who had been educated at Moscow and knew Russian traditions very well. They produced soap of special form, soap for child's with alphabet letters printed on it, round soap etc. - by the end of XIX the century Brocard factory in Moscow was largest in Europe; they were the official supplier for Russian and Spanish courts. Later, at special technology show at Moscow they installed fountain operated with perfumes - that was the start of Brocard empire in 1864. Soon produced "Bouquet of Empress" perfume and the first Russian eau de cologne "Flowering". this perfume is still produced under the name of "Red Moscow".
Products was of good quality and supplied to other European countries.
The 1917 Revolution terminated Brocard empire, it was nationalised in 1918 as the Soap and Perfumery Factory No.5. Molotov’s wife, Polina Zhemchuzhina was the factory director until Stalin’s suspicions led to her arrest for treason in 1948.
Re-named as "Novaya Zarya" in 1922

Safraleine

A molecule that evokes saffron, with its lush, leathery accents

Sage

Of the genus salvia genus; yields a great variety of aromatic plants species used in the perfume industry. The essential oil is made from steam-distilling the dried leaves of the plant. The most important essential oil comes from the clary sage, S. Sclarea that is native to the Mediterranean region but is now grown worldwide. Clary sage oil has a honeyed and musky scent.

Sage

French = sauge; German = Salbei

Sakura

Seeking identification and details

Sambac

Part of the jasmine family, genus J. officinalis var sambac; three types of Sambac used in the perfumery industry; the essential oil in slightly viscous.
It takes 8,000 carefully hand-picked blossoms which are to picked as they are unfolding, attention has to be paid not to bruise or mishandle the flowers, since that would compromise the aroma, to produce 1 gram (about 1 ml.)

Arabian Sambac

Also known as Arabain Jasmine; is a bushy vine or scrambling shrub with shiny dark green leaves and fragrant little white flowers.

Jasmine Sambac

Sometimes referred to as Indian Sambac; is more musky and spicy than the Jasmine Absolute. It blooms at night

Jasmine Sambac Grandiflora

Is softer, more gentle and floral than Jasmine Sambac, is more widely known and is frequently found in gardens all over the world. I

Sampaguita

he national flower of the Philippines; according to local folklore a young Princess named Lakambini once pledged eternal fidelity to the nobleman Lakan Galing as he set off to defend her Kingdom. Sumpa - Kita (I Promise You) the Princess said as they embraced on a hilltop overlooking the sea. The Princess waited day & night for her lover...but the Nobleman never returned.Heartbroken...the Princess did not live long and she was buried on the very hilltop where she made her vow. On her solitary grave grew a vine of white softly scented flowers that were named Sampaguita for they seem to echo the fervent promise made by the Princess. The Sampaguita Flower remains a timeless testament to a lover's pledge...a symbol of purity, devotion and fidelity.

Sample miniature

Given to customers to promote fragrance

Sandalwood

Name comes from the Sanskirit chandana. The oil is found only in the heartwood of the tree and takes 30 years to form

Sandalwood (Mysore)

The oil is one of the oldest and most valued of all raw materials used in the creation of fine perfumes. The best and purest oil is extracted from the white sandalwood tree, santalum album, which is grown in the Indian province of Mysore. The clear glutinous oil retains its sweet, rich, warm woody balsamic fragrance for a long time, making it an excellent fixative. Indian sandalwood is now endangered, many modern perfumes use Australian sandalwood see below

Sandalwood (Australis)

Obtained from the tree of the genus antalum spicatum; found in Western Australia; solvent extraction and vacuum codistillation from the heartwood and root ball; has powerful, sweet and nutty in the top notes; woody, dulcet heart notes on warm, rich base notes.

Sandblasting

The process of crafting an acid-etched look by subjecting the glass surface to pressure blown sand

Saponaria

Of the genus saponaria gypsophilia, a rhizome; essential oil is steam extracted

Sassafras

The essential oil is steamed distilled from the roots; grown mainly in Brazil from the genus cinnamomum micranthum

Satin glass

American art glass consisting of layers of coloured glass, then given an acid-vapour bath to produce a satin finish

Sautoir

A perfume bottle or pendant on a long chain; a French jewellery fashion item from the 19th century

Savon

French for soap

Schinus molle

Is the California Pepper tree

SDA

Marking on bottle stand for 'Specially Denatured Alcohol', indicating that the company owned a legal permit to use alcohol in their products.

Seahorse

A small hand-blown scent bottle, distinguished by the base of the bottle which has been drawn out and curled up into a tail; popular in late 18th and early 19th century. Also referred to as 'dolphin pungents'

Seam

The ridge left on the surface of a bottle formed in a mould

Sea weed

Extracted from the genus fucus vesiculosus L; also known as the bladder seaweed. The absolute has a deep green or greenish brown liquid of intensely green herbaceous, phenolic-woody and 'dry' aroma.

Secreti Nobilissime dell'Arte

Book published in 1678 on perfumes by the Italian author Giovanni Rosetto

Sense of Smell

Our sense of smell is located in the most primitive area of our brain, the limbic system; because of this it matures before any other of our senses

Serenolide

A Givaudan molecule; white musk with fruity undertones.

Seringat

French for 'mock orange' see above

Sesame Oil

Obtained from the genus sesamum inducum

Shagreen

The skin of shark which has a rough granular texture; in modern days the Perfumery trade uses synthetic (faux) shagreen to help with support shark conservation

Shalimar

Famous ancient Hindu garden in Kashmir restored by the descendants of Emperor Jahangir : c530 ; meaning the Abode of Love

Shiso

Also known as perilla or sesame leaf

Siam Benzoin

The resin is obtained from the truck of styrax tonkinensis, a bush native to Laos and Vietnam

Sibling scents

Updated variations of successful fragrances, re-formulated for the modern market.

sic

Recorded as found, not a mis-spelling; many fragrances trade-marked with odd spelling

Sillage

A French term for a lingering trail of scent, when you wear a fragrance this is what you leave behind.

Sira des Indes

Fragrance by Parfums Jean Patou; name refers to the South Indian dessert of cream of wheat, butter and sugar, usually served with banana slices on the side. It is also a tribute to Sita, the loyal queen from the epic Ramayana and the Sari.

Sirene

The moulded figures of nudes are often referred to as sirenes or nymphs

Spangle glass

A type of art glass; has a sparkling effect, created by a layer of coloured glass over clear glass that has been embedded with mica flakes

Smokey note

Often found in male fragrances to reproduce a leathery aroma; often created by birch tar oil.

Solid perfume

A soft waxy fragrant substance. The container is also referred to as a solid perfume or glace. Molinard marketed theirs as 'Concreta'

Solid Phase Micro Extraction

Referred to as SPME; pioneered by Dr Braja Mookherjee on behalf of IFF; used in modern fragrance’s creation: a highly sensitive instrument that reads the chemical environment around an object; it is believed to be the closest that science has ever come to in matching the abilities of the human nose

Soliflore

Fragrances with a single flower as their main theme

Solvents

Liquids, almost entirely without colour or odour, used to dilute perfume oils; e.g: acetones, alcohol

Sophistication

The perfumery term of adulteration of an essential oil to increase it volume by the addition of one of its non-odorous chemical elements.

Spearmint

Various species are used to make the essential oil but the most common one used in perfumes is mentha spicata, production for the perfume industry comes manily from Brazil, China and the USA

Species

The major subdivision of a genus of plants. A biological classification composed of related plant individuals.

Spikenard

From the Greek 'Nardos' - from the root of an Indian plant : genus nartostchys jattamansi; a member of the valerian family

Spicy Family

Of perfumes consists of such ingredients as vanilla, cinnamon, cloves and peppers.

Splash Cologne

A toilet water containing the minimum amount of perfume oil: between 1-3%

SPME

See 'Solid Phase Micro Extraction'

Sport perfumes

Relatively new category of perfume, characterized by freshness, often employing citrus notes.

Stability

The degree to which a fragrance is effected over time by heat, light and air

Stained glass

A finished piece of clear glass that is coloured wholly or in part by the application of coloured pigments to the surface

Star Anise

Of the genus illicium vernum, an evergreen tree related to the magnolia; the essential oil is concentrated not only from the seeds but also from the leaves; both have a warm soft spicy fragrance.

Ver 17043

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