Perfume Intelligence - The Encyclopaedia of Perfume

Baies de Genièvre

French for juniper berry

Baies Rose

Pink peppercorns, from the tree genus schinus molle, also known as the Peruvian or California pepper tree. Are actually dried berries and not "true" peppercorns.

Bakelite

Trade name for a synthetic resin and plastic material made from phenol and formaldehyde

Balance

The combination of fragrant notes when one does not over power the others

Balsam of Peru

Is obtained from the tree mroxylon pereirae. A pathological product that exudes from the truck by making ‘v’ shaped cuts in the bark of the trees, this forms into a thick resin and the essential oils are steam distilled and has a dense vanilla-like suaveness and spicy aroma. Balsam of Peru was named because it was originally assembled and shipped to Europe from the ports of Callao and Lima, Peru, but the species is not indigenous to Peru.

Balsam of Tolu

Is obtained from the tree myroxylon balsamum, a tall tree native to northern South America, found predominantly in Colombia, Peru, Venezuela, and some areas of Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Bolivia. A closely related species called balsam of Peru (M. pereirae) is native to Central America farther north.
The balsam is extracted by making ‘v’ shaped cuts in the bark of the trees, this forms into a thick resin and the essential oils are steam distilled and has a dense vanilla-like suaveness and spicy aroma.
Also known as tolu balsam, bálsamo, baume de tolu, pau de balsamo, tache, estoraque, cabreúva veremelha, nabal, chirraca, sádalo

Balsamic notes

A term used to describe the sweet, soft and warm fragrance of balsams and resins

Base

A perfumer’s personal interpretation of a theme or note of the fragrance

Base note

The third and final phase in the process of perfume evaporation on the skin - leaving the residue of the fragrance.

Basil

Although there are many varieties grown worldwide only two - French basil and exotic basil- produce the essential oils. Both are known as ocimum basilicum. The French verity more than likely originated from India like the exotic one, which is also called sweet basil or Reunion basil. Now grown in many countries, the two oils are extracted by steam distillation

Basil

German = Basilkum

Bas-relief

A sculpture carved on a flat surface so that it only project a little from the background

Bath Aqua

A type of glass whose name was is taken from the city of Bath's Latin name; 'Aquae Sulis'; made by adding copper oxide to molten glass; results in a delicate translucent aquamarine colour reminiscent of the famous hot springs.

Bay leaf

French = laurier; German = Lorbeer

Bay Tree

Of the laurel species, laurus nobilis, which mean the ‘lordly laurel’, an evergreen native of the Mediterranean, although most of production is for the kitchen the majority of the essential oil is produced in the Balkan region by steam-distillation

Beeswax

A pleasantly scented and widely used in a range of cosmetic products; prized for its ability to emulsify in a mixture with other ingredients

Ben Oil

Used since ancient times; obtained from the seeds of the horse-radish tree, moringa oleifera; an odourless essential oil; also used in the effleurage and maceration process.

Benzoin

Commonly called friar’s balsam; is obtained from the storax tree, styrax benzoin native to tropical South-east Asia, harvested like frankincense and myrrh by scoring the bark of the tree, treated with alcohol the absolute has a balsamic fragrance with hints of vanilla and chocolate: used as a fixative and to impart a rich, confectionery finish

Benzoin Siam

Obtained from the tree genus benzoin tonkinensis; considered superior for perfumery and perfumed soap industry than other types of benzoin, where it is used very extensively as a fixative; has a pleasant, sweet- balsamic aroma with a distinct note of vanilla.

Bergamot

Citrus bergamia is a small tree; bears miniature like orange fruit, probably originated in India and China. The essential oil is extracted from the peel by expression, a light greenish-yellow liquid that has a strong, sweet, fruity note with balsamic spicy undertones

Bergamot mint

Of the genus monarda didyma a herb in only occasionally used in fragrances

Benzene

Derived from coal tar; used in the manufacture of synthetic fragrances, eg rose

Bigarade orange

A bitter orange oil expressed from the peel of the Bigarade or Seville orange tree; it is known as ‘the pig of perfumery’ as it yields so many scent ingredients

BIMAL

Collectors term for early American blown glass usually from 1860 to 1900

Birch Wood

Originates from Northern Europe and North America; parts used include, bark, sap and leaves; and oil produced mainly in Austria, Germany and Russia

Bitter Almond

French = amerés ; German =Bittermandel

Black

French = noir; German = Schwarz

Blackberry

French = mure; German = Brombeere

Black Cherry

A fragrant ingredient

Blackcurrant

Member of the gooseberry family, genus ribes, the essential oil also known as cassis is obtained from the bud of the blackcurrant by the use of solvents; has a greener and lighter odour than cassis

Blackcurrant

French = cassis; German = Johannesbeere

Black ribes buds

Another name for Black current buds

Black Pepper

Used extensively in fragrance manufacturing - mainly for masculine fragrances - has a multifaceted aroma

Blank

A plain finished object (bottle) intended for additional finishing; e.g.decorating

Blend

The mixing of two or more raw materials or plain notes; discribed as harmonious when ingredients are in equal balance

Blown glass

Hollowed glass made by air pressure forced into molten glass

Bluebell

A member of the genus hyacinthus non scriptus or scilla nutans native of northern Europe, the essential oil is blue in colour, extracted by the solvent method; also known as ‘blue hyacinth’

Blue Water Lily

From the genus nymphaea coerulea. In ancient times associated with the sun god, Ra. The descent of the flower under the water at dusk and its reappearance at dawn symbolized the resurrection of Osiris. The flower was used not only for its fragrant purposes, but also for the production of a favourite Egyptian drink, wine steeped with water lily flowers. Its mysticism was not lost on Eastern European folklore, where it is regarded as mischievous, dangerous and beautiful as rusalki, Russian river sprites.Also refer to 'Lotus'

Bohemian glass

Encompasses a wide range of decorative glass made in a variety of ways especially cutting, engraving and enamelling: area covered Austria, Saxony and Czechoslovakia, now the Czech Republic

Bois de Santal

French for sandalwood

Boronia

Essential oils obtained from the Australian shrub boronia megastigma, has fruity velvety amber tones, very rare

Boswellia

From the genus Boswellia Serrata, a species of trees wild grown in India from which the resin is extracted. The aroma can be described as balsamic, slightly spicy and the fragrance of incense

Bottle Glass

Usually refers to a poor grade glass, the type used to make bluish green whiskey flasks in 19th century and amber bottles for bitters or bluish ones for medicines

Bottle Note

The initial perception of the fragrance on opening the bottle

Bourbon

The old name for the Island of Reunion

Bouchon

French for stopper

Bouquet

A mixture of Floral notes in a fragrance

Bouvardia

Popular 19th centuary fragrance resembling jasmine which made from synethtic material.

Brazilian Rose-wood

Of the genis dalbergia nigra or palisander: the essential oils are highly acclaimed; used extensively in the fragrance industry. In 2005 declared an endangered species

Brilliant Period

Period from c1880 to 1910 in American glass history

Bristol Blue

Term is thought to have been started in c1760 when William Cockworthy of Bristol England, a glass merchant gained the monopoly of the Saxony smalt blue (cobalt oxide) importation after Saxony's war with Prussia; used in colouring glass

Broom

There are several species of broom most of which belong to the genus cytisus, a small tree or shrub found through-out the temperate regions of Europe. The concrete and absolute are extracted from the dried flower by maceration

Buchu Leaf Oil

An essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of three species of the Buchu shrub, borosma ventusta, b. betuline and b. crenulata, native to South Africa: a very intense mint and camphor like fragrance

Bulgarian Rose

Bulgarian rose oil is recognized as the worldwide as the world’s finest rose attar (or oil). Bulgaria has a 330 year-old-tradition in essential rose oil distillation; it is steam distilled (not solvent extracted) and is 100% pure. This pure rose oil contains the essence of the rosa damascena flowers cultivated in the Valley of the Roses in Bulgaria and it takes 2500 roses to produce one gram of precious attar.

Burnish

To rub; to polish a surface with a burnishing stone to create a sheen

Cabbage Rose

From the genus Rosa centifolia; from which most of the rose oil that is used in the perfume industry is produced

Cabochon

A style of cutting a convex form, smoothed and highly polished with no facets; also a decorative motif carved onto an oval or convex shape with a plain surface

Cabrueva

A tree from Brazil and Paraguay, of the genus myroxylon balsamum . The essential oil is steam extracted from the heartwood and has a reddish brown hue

Cade

A wood from the juniper family, genus juniperus oxycedrus; grown in Portugal and Yugoslavia for the perfumery industry

Cage-work

Decorative hand-cut or pressed metal encasing a perfume bottle

Cajeput

The essential oil is obtained from the leaves and twigs from a tree grown in Indonesia

Calamus

The essential oil is obtained from the rhizome of a small plant, genus acorus calamus; grown in North Korea and India

Calone

A watermelon ketene that evokes the scent of the sea; ozone, marine; e.g. L’Eau d’Issey, with its sharp fresh notes

Calypsone

A Givaudan molecule with a watery / ozonic melon notes.

Cameo

Where the object has been cut to reveal the under layers of colour in a relief design

Camomile

Considered a sacred plant by the Ancient Egyptians; renowned for its soothing and relaxing properties; has a fresh 'green' aroma

Camphire

A shrub growing to a height of between eight and ten feet; bearing cream-colored and very fragrant flowers; genus lawsonia alba. In ancient times it grew very plentifully near En-gedi (Song of Solomon i. 14). Various uses were made of camphire, has a fragrant woods (Song of Solomon iv. 13, 14) and valued for its perfume; used chiefly as a dye for the hair and the skin.

Camphor

Of the tree genus cinnamomum camphora; also known as camphor laurel, an exotic that has been widely cultivated for more than a century as a shade and ornamental tree. This is the aromatic tree from which camphor was derived (used in medicines and mothballs), until camphor oil began to be made artificially in the 1920s. Camphor laurel is native to China and Japan where it has been commercially used for its timber and essential oils for hundreds of years.

Camphoraceous

The perfumery term to describe the fresh, clean medicinal fragrance redolent of camphor found in eucalyptus, rosemary, lavender and other herbal notes

Canaga

A tropical flower, essential oil is steam distilled; grown mainly in Indonesia and Comoros

Cane

A slender rod of coloured glass from which a pattern in made in millefiori glass

Cannelle

French for cinnamon.

Carambole

Star-fruit

Caraway

A white flowered aromatic herb; grown mainly in Australia, Bulgaria and Egypt

Caraway

French = cumin; German = Kümmel

Cards

Advertising material usually of postcard size (110mm * 150mm)

Carmelite Water

A toilet water first prepared in 1380 by the nuns of the Carmelite Abbey of St Just for King Charles V of France; made from balm, lemon peel, orange flower water and spices distilled in alcohol

Cardamom

A tall reed-like perennial shrub elletaria cardamomum, native to southern India and Sri Lanka, it is from the seeds that the essential oil is steam distilled

Carnation

TThe fragrance of the carnation used in perfumery does not come from the carnation familiar of the florist shops, but from the clove pink (pinks) or dianthus caryophyllus; the name is derived from Greek, meaning di, Zeus and anthos, flower, "the flower of Zeus," indicating its importance in the religious context of Ancient Greece. Main growing areas of pinks for the perfumery trade are the hills of Liguria, Italy and south of Grasse, France.
The essential oil, known as either carnation or clove-pink, is extracted from the petals using solvents and takes a tonne of flowers to produce just 2kg of concrete, this in turn yields just 200g of absolute; as a results it is very costly. Also considered to be valuable for skin revitalizing and premature ageing properties.

Carnation

French = Giroflée; German = Nelke

Carrier oil

A vegetable oil base in which essential oils are diluted to create massage oils and body care products

Cartouche

A recurring sculptured design in the form of an unrolled scroll or inscription

Ver 20018

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