Perfume Intelligence - The Encyclopaedia of Perfume

Guerlain Presentations Flaçon

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Eau de Cologne Golden Bee

1853

Created to house 'Eau de Cologne Impériale' for the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; its decorative bees have become Guerlain’s house symbol

Carré

Used in the 1870’s and 1880’s to hold the fragrances from Guerlain; was a typical of the bottles used by all fragrance houses at that time

Fleuri

Dating from 1900 – maybe the first conceptual perfume presentation: used to house the fragrance 'Voila Pourquoi J’amais Rosine', the stopper was surrounded by a bouquet of silk flowers, the bottle looked like a vase

Capsule

Lotion Végétale was a hair dressing created in 1900; this presentation was launched in 1920; used for all the major Guerlain fragrances

Louis XVI

1902

Stopper in the shape of a pineapple

Empire

1902

Bottle, with guided drapery, created to house the perfume 'Bon Vieux Temps'

Escargot

Triangular shaped bottle; the stylization of the Guerlain name across its shoulder, becomes the body of a snail from which it takes its name

Quadrilobe

1908

Created in 1908 for the fragrance Sue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk and Fleur de Feu which show a ‘modernist’ design

Bouchon Cœur

1911

Bouchon Fleurs

1912

Used to house fragrances, 'Jasmiralda' and 'Mi-Mai'

Tortue

1914

Created to celebrate the opening of the Guerlain boutique at 68, Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris, France

Petit Beurre

1916

Used primarily for export to the USA

Lyre

1921

Bouquet de Faunes

1922

The maiden’s face on the front of the bottle was taken from the entrance to the Guerlain boutique at 68 Avenue Champs-Elysées, Paris, France

Goutte

1923

Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’

Chave-Saouris

1924

Maybe the most beautiful perfume bottle in the world; designed by Raymond Guerlain and executed by Cristalleries de Baccarat in 1924

Djedi

1926

Created by George Chevalier, a development of the ‘petit Beurre’ presentation

Tabatiére

1927

Bakelite

1930

Created to house the fragrance ‘L’Heure Bleue’

Guerlilas

1930

Borne

1931

Created to house many of the Guerlain perfumes

White Capped

1931

Used for many toiletry products

Rayonnant

1932

Stylized to look like the movement of a propeller; created to house 'Vol de Nuit'

Brun Fumé

1933

Tonnelet

1934

Laterne

1935

Encrier

1936

Montre

1936

Created originally to house the fragrance 'Cachet Jaune'. The bottle became the house bottle for all 'Eaux de Colognes'

Papillion

1937

Stopper originally smooth but later altered to facilitate opening

Fleur de Feu

1948

The name comes from the idea of flowers rising from the flames – like a phoenix; Guerlain’s first perfume after the Second World War

Ode

1955

Created to house the fragrance 'Ode'

Amphore

1955

Shape taken from the Ode design; became the standard presentation for all ½ oz perfumes

Voyage

1955

Created originally for Ode edc

Chant D’Arômes

1962

Papure

1974

Nahéma

1978

Guerlinade

A secret set of fragrance accords found in every Guerlain fragrance: meaning each is a variation of this central theme; it contains two irresistible ingredients, vanilla and civet. Civet from Ethiopia, an aphrodisiac, warm and voluptuous (in the right dilution it has the reputation of smelling of a woman’s sex) and vanilla the universally popular primary odour in fragrances

Hallmark

Impressed mark or marks on silver or gold that indicate what the metal consists of, can include date, location and makers mark

Hammam

The Arab word for Turkish bath

Hand ground

The process of hand fitting, grinding a stopper into a bottle

Harmony

A harmonious fragrance is one in which all the elements are tuned in such a way that no component becomes prominent during the evaporation.

Hawthorn

A small bushy tree of the genus crataegus oxyacantha; parts used to are its flowers, leaves and berries

Hazelnut oil

Used in the cosmetics for its moisturising qualities; has a clear nutty-woody fragrance.

Hay Absolute

Of the genus foin coupe. The term Hay in this place refers to the type of 'new mown hay.' ; has been used for perfume base creations for many decades; the aroma is powerful and extremely sweet, quite diffusive, coumarin-like and faintly herbaceous, very uniform and tenacious. Used in perfumery not only in 'new mown hay' bases, or in combination with flouve, melilot, tonka, woodruff, deertongue, etc., but also as an individual note to be introduced whenever a truly herbaceous sweet under tone is required.

Hayfield note

Used in perfumery to reproduce the sweet scent of new-mown hay: usually represented by coumarin.

Headspace

See under Living Flower Technology

Heart notes

The notes located at the centre of the fragrance, which become dominant after the top notes have faded away on the skin.

Heavy notes

Are usually mossy or animalic scents, which have a strong effect on the fragrance.

Hedione

A Firmenich tradename, also known as methyl dihydrojasmonate; Like jasmine but without the clotted cream density; like another larger molecule material Iso E Super, possesses not only high diffusion, but also tenacity; as it evaporates, hedione seems to remain in the air, which is an important quality, making it one of the most popular perfume materials. It is used to accent many compositions, therefore it is next to impossible to list all of the fragrances containing hedione.

Heliotrope

The essential oil is obtained by distillation of the purple flowers of the herb heliotroium peruvianum native to Peru, but now grown worldwide in temperate climates.
Also know as the ‘Cherry Pie’ plant.
The flowers have a distinctive almond odour with under tones of vanilla pastry. In the Victorian language of flowers heliotrope stood for ‘devotion’.

Helvetolide®

A Firmenich tradename,the latest generation of synthetic musks (the oldest one goes back to 1888) is particularly valued for its delectable pear note, reminiscent of ambrette, a vegetal musk extracted from hibiscus seeds (2015)

Henna plant

Of the genus lawsonia inermis: every part of this plant is perfumed; also known as camphire

Herbaceous

A term used to describe the characteristic cool leafy scents of herbs and herbal medicines: lavender and sage.

Hesperidic notes

A term used in perfumery to describe the fragrance obtained from cirtus fruit

Hibiscus

A term used to describe the characteristic cool leafy scents of herbs and herbal medicines: lavender and sage.

Obtained from the leaves and bark of the Ho tree; grown in China

Honey

also known as miel - used in early Arabian fragrances and later in European ones. Made synthetically today

Honeysuckle

There are over 200 varieties in the lonicera family, the essential oils are extracted from mainly L. caprifolium or L. periclymenon but at a prohibitive price so that virtually all honeysuckle notes used in perfumery are created from synthetic compounds of floral essences and chemicals.

Honey water

A toilet water used widely as a facial lotion and occasionally in medicine in France and England in the 18th century. Ingredients varied but included brandy, honey, coriander, cloves, benzoin, storax, rose water, neroli, musk and amber.

Horse Chestnut

Used in the cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes; has a green-smokey fragrance

Trademark of Verrières Pochet du Courval

Hungary Water

According to tradition was first prepared for Queen Elizabeth of in c1370, inspired the first named perfume Hungary Water: an alcohol-based extract of edc distilled from orange-flower extract, rose essence, rosemary oil, lemon oil, Melissa oil and peppermint oil.

Hyacinth

The type used in the perfume industry is grown from the genus hyacinthus orientalis, native to Syria but now cultivated worldwide. The flower is basically blue; essential oil is extracted by using solvents and is actually green to brown in colour with a very strong floral note. It is related to the bluebell whose essential oil is blue in colour.
A Greek legend tells a story of the flower blooming from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo.
Remembrance is the associate meaning

Hygeia

Greece

Daughter of Asklepios (see above) Goddess of Health

Hyraceum

Petrified hyrax urine is the source of the animal pheromone which does not hurt the animal in any way - similar to 'Golden Stone' see above but collected in South Afrian and is sold by Firmenich Naturals

Ver 20018

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