Perfume Intelligence - The Encyclopaedia of Perfume

Mace

See under Nutmeg

Maceration

Mastication; to chew: the ancient extraction process of obtaining aromatic substances from flowers and plants by heating then in water or oil, which absorbs their fragrance.

Megaleion Perfume

Also refered to as Megalium. An ancient Greek fragrance with notes of burnt resin, oil of balanos, cinnamon, cassia and myrrh

Magnolia

The essential oil is obtained from the genus michelia alba (Magnoliaceae) syn michelia longifolia; originated from France; the blossom has an extremely delicate, sweet fragrance reminiscent of rose, violet and orange flowers.

Mandarin

Of the genus citrus reticular, an evergreen tree with dark green glossy leaves and fragrant pink and white flowers. The fruit resembles that of an orange but is smaller and sweeter and less acidic. Native to China like its cousin the orange and was not introduced to Europe till the 19th century.
The essential oil is obtained by cold pressing the zesty outer peel; the resultant liquid is free flowing and while maintaining its fresh citrus character is very sweet and almost floral in nature.

Mandrake

Of the genus mandragon officiarum L; an Eurasian plant with purple flowers and a forked root, long thought to have magical powers; has a musky sweet aroma. Also now known to have both hallucinogenic and soporific properties

Marigolds

Of the genus calendula officinalis or the common marigold produces a very small amount of oil with the use of solvents making it very expensive so that it is only used in high-class fragrances. The absolute in obtained from the petals of the marigold flower.

Marigold (white)

Of the genus magnolia grandiflora, the absolute is obtained from the huge white petals

Marigolds and Tagetes

The latter a type of the former and although both are used in perfumery it is tagetes that is more commonly used. Calendula officinalis or the common marigold produces a very small amount of oil with the use of solvents making it very expensive so that it is only used in high-class fragrances. Tagetes oil has a rich cloying fruity scent with notes of apple and is produced by steam distillation.

Marigold

The absolute in obtained from the genus calendula officinalis ; originates from France; produced from the petals of the marigold flower.

Marine

Meaning 'ozone' or 'sea scented' fragrance

Marjoram

Sometimes referred to in the perfumery industry as Spanish Marjoram; of the genus thymus mastichina; the essential oil is extracted from the leaves and flowers; mainly produced in Morocco

Marver

A flat plate, usually cast iron on which molten gather (glass) on a rod is rolled to shape

Mastic

Of the genus pistacia lentiscus; originates from Greece; the essential oil is extracted from the oleo resin with alcohol. Similar to galbanum with its tart green qualities, it is a bit sweeter and not as shy as violet leaf.: also refered to as lentisc, the collected raw resin crystals are called "mastic tears" or "chios tears". Mastic is used as a seasoning in Turkey and Egypt and is known for its medicinal properties. It is used in perfume, varnish, and as a liqueur flavoring.

Matale

A type of tea named after the one of the tea growing districts of Sri Lanka; also known for its spice gardens

Maté

A Paraguayan bush, genus ilex paraguayensis; now cultivated in other Latin American countries; has been claimed will one day replace coffee and tea in the civilized world.
The cultivated trees are pruned to bush size to facilitate picking of the leaves. The forests where the trees grow are known as 'yerbales', and the leaves are called 'yerba maté.'
Known to the natives for hundreds, perhaps thousands of years, and the greater part of the present population of South America, Maté is an everyday tonic. It is only recently that perfumers have become interested in Maté; the absolute is semi solid, sticky, very dark green mass. It has a very peculiar, rich herbaceous, dry leaf, woody foliage like and somewhat phenolic or smoky, medicinal odour, resembling that of the leaves

Mayflower

Also called 'moss beauty' due to its rust-coloured leaves and delicate pink-rosy or white flowers; native to North America; the essential oil is steam extracted and has an aromatic aroma

Melilot

The absolute is obtained from the genus meliotus offinalis arvensis; originated Central Europe. Closely related to the clover and have particularly attracted the interested in perfume and flavouring industries.
Oleoresin of Melilotin in a petroleum ether or benzene extraction product of the dry flowers for the fresh plants have very little odour or flavour, however, upon drying, various chemical reactions (decomposition of glycosides) take place and the odorous materials are set free. In perfumery, the 'melilotin' is most useful in the new mown hay, lavender, pine and forest type fragrances where it is an excellent blender to 'round off' the effects of sharp smelling materials.

Melissa

Of the genus melissa officinalis - a type of creeper native to the Mediterranean; has a delicate lemon scent used extensively in pot pourri, bath and body lotions. Was used as an infusion in many European countries and it is the main product of a famous fragrance preparation in Europe 500 years ago - Eau de Carmes

Melons

Are of the trailing vine cucumis melo, while the watermelons are from the genus citrullus lanatus. The fruit’s sweet and often exotically floral scents have proved an ideal ingredient for the increasingly popular youthful and floral-fruity styles of fragrances. Being hard to derive a quantity of fragrant oil from melons or watermelon the notes in modern quality perfumes are synthetically produced.

Mendesian Perfume

An ancient Egyptian perfume also popular with the Romans and Greeks, made in the city of Mendes in Lower Egypt

Men’s Fragrances

The history of fragrance and lotions for men goes back to the very beginning of civilizations on this earth. Like everything else in the great sweep of progress through the pages of time, invention grew from necessity. Hot dry weather caused skins to crack and dry. It was soon discovered that oils and rendered animal fats not only helped heal the skin but prevent further irritation. The rich used fine almond, olive and sesame oils, while the poor were less fragrant but equally comfortable with castor oil. As far back as 200 years before the birth of Christ, the Babylonian ruler, Hammurabi, decreed that everyone in his kingdom (men and women) had to wash in perfume

Metallic notes

A fragrance note reminiscent of cool clean metal

Micro-Encapsulation

The method of incorporating tiny droplets of fragrance oils into thin walled microscopic capsules; microscopic balloons filled with a fragrance; the outer wall is formed from using surface active agents and waxes, gelatine etc., to encapsulated the fragrances which can be mixed with other substances; eg onto advertising inserts, capsules, paper, etc. so that when the surface is scratched the fragrance is released.

Midnight Candy

Also known as night phlox, of the genis zaluzianskya capensis

Millifliore glass

Literally means 'a thousand flowers'. Small mosaic sections of glass made by fusing and marving together regular arrangements of coloured glass cage.

Mimosa

Is the commercial name given to trees of the acacia genus, part of the legume family; many varieties of this tropical tree; the species used in perfumery are acacia dealbata or mimosa farnesiana. The essential oil is steam extracted from both the flower or from the resin both of which have floral notes

Miniatures

Are perfume bottles that are exact replica of its larger counter part. Commercial miniatures – those branded with the perfumer’s label – date from the early 1900’s; they called echantillons in France. Non-commercial miniatures date from 19th century

Mint

Correctly called 'watermint'; of the mentha genus is grown widely though out the temperate regions of the world. Various species are used to make the essential oils but the most common one used in perfumes is M. spicata, also known as spearmint.

Mint

French = Menthe; German = Minze

Mirht

Ancient Egyptian scented healing oils; over 30 types are known; copied in modern fragrances

mirabilis jalapa

A flower that opens when the last rays of sun disappear and blossoms throughout the night.

Mixed Scents

Same term as 'unisex' - fragrances aimed at both men and women

Mock Orange

Of the genus philadelphus coronaries, a small flowering shrub, sometimes referred to a syringa in the perfume industry, has a fragrance very similar to that of orange blossom.

Mogra

A type of jasmine

Mold

See 'mould'

Monoi

The word means "scented oil"; in modern perfumery, this mostly refered toas tiare (gardenia) petals macerated in coconut oil. Sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti.

Mousse de Chêne

Refer to Oakmoss.

Mosses

A solvent extraction of oak moss, evernia prunastri; the common tree moss, evernia furfurcea, produces absolutes indispensable in chypre freagrances. First used in early 1900's - there were various bases, tree moss - Mousse de Crête, Mousse de Corse and Mousse de Saxe.

Mossy notes

Term used to describe the general fragrance of mosses and lichens in perfumes

Motif

A dominant theme, such as 'Art Deco motif'

Mouilette

Perfumer's term for the paper strips used to sample a fragrance; from these strips perfume sample cards developed

Mould

A negative form into which glass is either cast or blown

Mount

A decorative base or attachment.

Mugwort

Also used in the relief of rheumatism and gout; the essence is steam distilled

Musk

Is obtained from the musk deer, moschus moschiferus, who live in the remote mountains of Central Asia and the Himalayas and for this reason and that it only is produced during rutting season it is the most expensive of ingredients obtained from an animal. Furthermore it is one of the most potent and long lasting of scent additives, which today becoming more and more rare.

Musk - synthetic

Discovered in 1926 by Dr Baur; various types; referred to as 'nitromusks'

Mushals

Traditional Bulgarian souvenirs : wooden containers, hand painted and decorated with a traditional Bulgarian design. Each one contains perfume vial of 2,1 ml (0.0647 oz) essence of the world famous Bulgarian rose oil.

Myrrh

A liquorice-sweet smelling gum (resin) obtained from a Middle Eastern the shrub commiphora myrrha; used sparingly in oriental perfumes; has been used as a fragrance since Biblical times

Myrtle

Or Corsican pepper, of the genus myrtis communis, a shrubby evergreen with ever part of the plant being aromatic. Used as a fumigant in Ancient Egypt.
Today myrtle oil, sometimes known as eau d’anges, is steam-distilled from the leaves and twigs, the resultant yellow-to-orange oil has a fresh, piny, spicy fragrance, which is similar to eucalyptus but with a strong hint of nutmeg.

Nag Champa

A perfume oil originally made in the Hindu and Buddhist monasteries of India and Nepal; used to perfume incense. Traditionally made from a sandalwood base, to which are added a variety of flower oils, including that from the flower of the Champaca tree

Napoléon

Is said to have used an average of 54 bottles of cologne each month; always wore his favourite scent into battle.

Narcissus

The narcissus is a close relative to the garden daffodil; there are several species that are used in perfumery. Narcissus odorus has the strongest scent; it is also known as jonquil or rush daffodil and has a heady cloying aroma; the essential oils are extracted from the fresh flowers by enfleurage, using strong solvents.

Narcotic

An exceptionally heavy and strong fragrances, such as jasmine, tuberose and animalic ingredients, are described as narcotic due to their intoxicating effect

Necessaire

A French case made as early as the 14th century for holding writing, needlework and toilet accessories

Neck

The narrow part of a bottle between the mouth and the shoulder

Nekfitir

An ancient perfumed oil from Amor; used extensively during the 'New Kingdom' era of ancient Egypt

Néroli Oil

Also called 'Neroli Bigarde Oil' or "Orange Flower'.
The absolute is obtained the genus citrus aurantium, the 'shaddock' grapefruit tree; by the steam distillation method. It is one of the most expensive essential oils; takes over a ton of blooms to yield 1kg of oil, has a lighter in colour and fragrance to orange flower absolute which is produced by the solvent extraction.
The story goes that it was discovered in the late seventeenth century and introduced to France by Anna Maria de la Tremoille- Noirmoutier, Princess of Neroli.

Night Bloomers

Some flowers such as jasmine, honeysuckle and evening primrose only bloom at night. They are light in colour and very fragrant

Nirvanolide

A Givaudan musk molecule with a fruity and powdery musk aroma

Noa

According to Polynesian legend, the dawn of creation was heralded by the gods' first work, creating 'noa', or fragrance. The French Polynesian island of Bora Bora was believed to be the residence of these gods. Cacharel launched 'Noa' in 1998.

Nose

Or 'nez' in French. A master perfumer; there are more than one thousand perfumers in the world but less than fifty of them are "Noses", that is, perfumers whose creativity and originality are such that they are able to launch real trends.(2005)

Nosegay

An 18th century toilet water made from distilled honey water with cloves, lavender and neroli

Note of interest

Quote 'The decade 1920 to 1929 was era where life was to be lived to the full; a profusion of brilliant fragrances almost too numerous to classify were launched'; unquote!

Notes

Characteristic fragrance that distinguishes individual components in perfumery

Top notes

Are the fragrances are perceived a few minutes after the application of a perfume. Top notes create the scents that forms a person's initial impression of a perfume. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh", "assertive" or "sharp". The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in aroma, very volatile, and evaporate quickly.

Heart notes

Are the essential character or the body of the fragrance referred to as Heart notes or Middle notes: form main body of a perfume and acts to smooth the sharpness from the initial impression of perfume that caused by the top notes. Not surprisingly, heart note compounds are usually more mellow and "rounded". Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 10 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume.

Base notes

Are the aroma a perfume that appears after the departure of the heart notes; they bring depth and solidness to a perfume. Compounds of this class are usually the fixatives used to hold and booster the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period perfume dry-down.

Nuancer

These fragrance materials are not the main fragrance carriers in a perfume, but are used to support and round off these carriers.

Nutmeg

Of the genus myristica fragrans (nux muscata); from the fruit of an evergreen tree grown in Indonesia and Sri Lanka

Nutmeg

French = Muscat; German = Muskat

Nutmeg and Mace

Are derived from the same plant, the tree myristica fragrans and are used extensively in cooking. Nutmeg is the kernel of the nut while mace is the bright red husk; the essential oils are produced by steam distillation.

Ver 20018

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