| Stearoptene | An odourless waxy material present in essential oils: it remains in the concrete form of the oil but is removed to produce absolute. | ||||||
| Stem | The supporting mount of a perfume bottle between the body and the its base | ||||||
| Sterling | The lawful standard for sliver established in England as early as the 14th century: the proportion is at least 925 parts per 1000 pure silver; silver marked '925' is sterling silver. | ||||||
| Stopper | The matching piece of a perfume bottle that fits into the mouth of the bottle to close and prevents its contents evaporating | ||||||
| Stopper cork | Indicate bottle was made between 1870 and 1920 | ||||||
| Stopper plactic | Were made after 1930 | ||||||
| Storax | A resin obtained from the liquidamber tree, liquidamber orientalis, has an aroma like plastic glue with a cinnamon edge; native to Turkey; First used by European perfumers in 1650. | ||||||
| Straited | Linear marks or wavy lines in poorly mixed or blown glass | ||||||
| Strawberry | Of the genus fragaria, meaning fragrance; the essential oil is distilled from the juice but excellent synthetic versions are available and it is these that are most likely to be found in fragrances | ||||||
| Strawberry | French = fraise; German = erdbeere | ||||||
| Studio glass | Glass items made by an artist or craftsman rather than by a glassmaker in a factory | ||||||
| Stylized | A design or shape, often angular, that suggests rather than imitates another form | ||||||
| Styrax | Also known as Storax. The essential oil is obtained from both the outer
bark (used for incense) and inner bark (perfumery) of the liquidamber
tree, genus liquidamber orientalis; native to Turkey, and is steam distilled. The biblical mention of "sweet storax" was also used in mummification from a smaller tree, genus styrax officinalis; regarded as one of the most valuable perfumes of the ancient world |
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| Substantivity | The lasting properties of a fragrance, dependent upon its degree of volatility: heavy non-volatile substances last longest and are often used for their fixative qualities. | ||||||
| Sulfurol | A fragrance that is interpreted by the human brain as the closest thing to the smell of skin; warm milk.. | ||||||
| Sulphide | A low relief cameo of a special composition encased in clear glass obtained by sucking out the surrounding air, it caused the cameo to take on a slivery appearance. Those from the 18th and 19th century are very rare. | ||||||
| Sukk | A popular fragrance amongest Arabs since medieval times | ||||||
| Sun glass | Glass made prior to 1919 that turns purple when exposed to the sun | ||||||
| Surface finishing | The final treatment of the surface of a piece (bottle) such as polishing, staining or acid frosting | ||||||
| Susinon | An ancient perfume of the 'Common Era' of Egypt; mentioned by the Greek writer Theophrastus | ||||||
| Sweet Almond | Of the genus prunus amara; a drupe – has a single seed or kernel surrounded by sweet and fragrant pulp; the seeds as well as the pulp yield a fragrant and/or therapeutic oil by distillation | ||||||
| Sweet Flag | Essential oil is obtained from the plant genus acorus calamus | ||||||
| Sweetie grapefruit | A cross between a grapefruit and a pomelo. Grown in the fertile Sharon Plain of Israel. | ||||||
| Sweet Note | Used to describe a fragrance that has richness and ambrosial characteristics associated with sweet taste. | ||||||
| Sweet pea | Of the genus lathyrus odoratus, which includes table peas to wild vetch have fragrant flower but it is the L odoratus; the sweet pea that has the finest although most sweet pea notes used in perfumes and toiletries are created now-a-days in the laboratory. | ||||||
| Sweet William | Of the genus dianthus barbatus, clove-scented, fringed flower that is bicolored in white/pink/red tones. It recently received some justified accolades when Kate Middleton included it in her bridal bouquet | ||||||
| Synthetic | Ingredients are used in virtually all fragrances; most have no more
than 20 per cent natural essences. Synthetic notes have greatly add to
the composition of fragrances; there are two kinds - isolates which are
chemicals extracted from natural essential oils and true synthetics that
might copy natural substances or be completely new. The first synthetic fragrance, coumarin was made by William Perkins in 1868; musk was made in 1888, vanilla in 1890 and violet in 1893. |
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| Tagetes | Of the genus tagetes patula glandulifea; a shrub grown in South Afriac; the essential oil is steamed distilled and has a sweet fruity citrus aroma. Also see above to 'Magnolia' | ||||||
| Tangerine | The tangerine tree isa vigorous and bushy in shape but with willowy branches. The fruit is borne mainly at the end of the branches; is of medium size; the rind is smooth and yellowish-orange in colour and very thin, peeling cleanly. The fruit quality is excellent, very high in sugar, giving a sweet distinctive rich flavour. Harvest is very late April to May. Main production comes from Brazil | ||||||
| Tarragon | The absolute is obtained from the genus compositae artemisia dracunculus; also known as Estragon; extracted from whole over-ground part of the herb. A sweet smelling, spicy oil. Known for its sweet - anisic, somewhat celery leaf like and fresh green scent very similar to that of the herb. Estragole (methyl chavicol or para-methoxy ally benzene) is the main constituent of Tarragon and is also found in pine oil and American turpentine oil. | ||||||
| Tassel | French = pompon; German = Quaste | ||||||
| Tattoos | Fragrance tattoos are temporary transfers applied to the skin by wetting the back, after 30 seconds the back can be peeled off and the fragrance is released | ||||||
| Tea | A varity of flavours and aroma’s used in perfume, a ‘green’ fragrance. The absolute is obtained from the genus thea sinensis L. which originated from China and is referred to as a "modifier"; a term used to refer to any material that is not appropriate to use a main ingredient for the top, middle, or base notes of a perfume but is nonetheless, quite valuable in its ability to alter, modify, or in any way, re-define an aroma. | ||||||
| Terpenes | Are the largest group of natural odorants; the name means 'materials whose carbon skeletons are made up from isoprene units; most important for the perfume industry are the oxygenated monoterpenes. | ||||||
| Terpenless oils | Essential oils from which non-odoriferous materials have been removed by water or steam distillation: they are therefore very pure and are highly valued by perfumers as they decompose at a slower arte than untreated oils. | ||||||
| Tenacity | The ability of a fragrance note or perfume to last or retain its characteristic odour. | ||||||
| Test-strip | A narrow strip of special highly absorbant paper for dipping into a composition or base which allows the 'nose' to smell the fragrance being created | ||||||
| The Great Depression | Started when the Wall Street Stock Market collapsed in 1929, through the early 1930's; resulted in the closure of hundreds of perfume houses world wide | ||||||
| Théorema | Ancient Greek writer who produced Concerning Odours, a treatise on perfume that remained the most important reference work on the subject until the Middle Ages. | ||||||
| Theme | The principal blend around which a perfumer (nose) creates a fragrance | ||||||
| The Seven - Son Flower | Of the genus heptacodium jasminoides - a shrub originating from China - discovered by the western world in the late XIXth century and brought to Europe and USA almost 100 years later. A legendary flower with a mysterious name - The Seven - Son flower like a tale from 1001 Nights in the Forbidden City (but in fact refers to the number of individual flowers). | ||||||
| Threading | The art of drawing streamers of colours through the middle of clear glass. Also the process of attaching glass threads as independent decorations; and also a method of using previously made strings of glass as decorations | ||||||
| Thuya | A rare and precious wood from Morocco | ||||||
| Thyme | Of the genus thymus vulgaris, an European herb; the essential oils are extracted by steam-distillation; used in medicine and toiletries as well as in fragrances. | ||||||
| Tiara stopper | A stopper that extends below the shoulder of the perfume bottle; also a stopper shaped in the form of a crown | ||||||
| Tiare flower | Also known as the candole: genes gardenia tahitensis, native to Tahiti and is its national flower, which gives off a unique and enchanting smooth sweet floral fragrance with heady undertones. | ||||||
| Tincture | The purified product obtained from resins or gums by extraction with alcohol. | ||||||
| Tilleul | of the genus tilia europaea, or Lime tree or Linden tree. Grows wild in southern Europe and northern Asia | ||||||
| Tobacco | There are many species of the genus nicotiana, indigenous to the Americas. The absolute comes mainly from the genus N. tabacum, and is extracted from the leaves with volatile solvents; France is a major producer. | ||||||
| Toilet Water | Also called eau de toilette; abbreviation edt; consists of four to eight percent perfume oil in 80 percent alcohol. | ||||||
| Tolu | Also refered to as Balsam of Tolu. A tree resin from South America, which when dried is said to have a strong aroma with elements of vanilla & cinnamon. Balsam of Peru is from a closely related species of tree, with an aroma like cinnamon and vanilla | ||||||
| Tonka bean | Or Tonquin Bean is not a bean but the seed of a tropical tree, genus didteryx odorata, native to South America. The concrete and absolute are obtained by first drying the bean then soaking it in alcohol which makes the bean swell, this is them dried and in so doing small crystals form on the bean; this is coumarin from which an absolute is extracted and has balsamic, hay-like aroma with vanilla and almond notes. The odour description 'tobacco-like' is somewhat confusing since Tonka tincture is used quite extensively in the flavouring of cured tobacco leaves. | ||||||
| Top Notes | The notes that are most immediately apparent when a perfume is applied: contain light volatile fragrances. | ||||||
| Toscanol | A Givaudan molecule with sweet, spicy, green, aromatic anisic aroma | ||||||
| Toy | A small decorative object, like a fragrance bottle, usually made out of porcelain or glass | ||||||
| Trail | Perfumery term used when refering to a fragrance's aroma detected in the air when used by a person | ||||||
| Translucent | Glass that is easy to see through but not clear | ||||||
| Transparency | A fragrance whose overall effect trends towards lighter and fresher notes | ||||||
| Tree moss | Notes are delicate sensual, dusty, earthy aroma; essential oil extracted from lichen | ||||||
| Tuberose | Of the genes polianthes tuberosa, a member of the lily family; native to Mexico and other Central American areas, as well as Indonesia. In 1594, Simon de Tovar, a Seville physician, managed to obtain the plant, which then made its way to Grasse, France; still grown in Grasse, the majority of tuberose absolute is produced in Morocco, India, China, the Comores Islands, Hawaii, and South Africa. Has powerful fragrance which is considered an aphrodisiac, and like most night blooming flowers, tuberose is pollinated nocturnally by moths, which explains the white shade of the flowers; like jasmine, it continues to produce its aromatic oils for two days after they are picked thus, lending itself as a perfect candidate to the traditional painstaking enfleurage method. Today solvent extraction using hexane is far more common. Either method is time consuming, requiring 3600 pounds of blossoms to produce 1 pound (lb) of the absolute, which is why tuberose oil is among the most expensive in perfumery, more than $2,000 per pound. (2005) |
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| Tuned | When a fragrance (perfume) has changed due to chemical alterations produced by age, exposure to the air, heat or light; causing a change in colour and smell | ||||||
| Ud | A word that means simply "wood" in Arabic. An obscure wood
partly due to its rarity and cost, but it is also to varying taste and
differing cultural traditions. During the Hajj, for example, Muslim pilgrims from around the world come to Makkah and Madinah, where many are introduced to the scent of 'ud, which is burned in the Great Mosque as well as in many other mosques throughout Saudi Arabia. 'Ud produces a fragrance that is not soon forgotten, and for this reason small packets of 'ud chips are a common souvenir. |
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| Unctuarium | In early Roman times, a room devoted to holding perfumes, also a room where bathers were massaged with perfumes, oils and unguents | ||||||
| Unguent | Prepared by steeping fragrant materials in animal fat creating a semi-solid ointment or grease. First used by Egyptians as the earliest enfleurage | ||||||
| Unisex fragrances | Fragrances were shared by both sexes until fairly recently anyway, and even Guerlain Jicky was originally developed for men and adopted by so many women that apparently Guerlain gave up and marketed it as a women's scent. The separation of perfumes for men and for women was a result of a socio-cultural shift in ideas that flourished after WWI. In the nineteenth century perfumes (fragrances) were perfumes. Quote from Chandler Burr, author of The Emperor of Scent, 'The perfume you use is a reflection of what you are yourself. No matter what perfume you apply - even rose - it will be an expression of your personality.For me, perfumery is timeless. It's like in Morocco, where there are perfumes, or essences, and they are worn by women or by men, without segregation.' unquote | ||||||
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Perfume Intelligence - The Encyclopaedia of Perfume Where you are: Volume Glossary Chapter 2: Incense - Ylang Page 7
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